France: Versailles, Provins, Belgium

After spending time on the beach in Normandy the morning of July 13 we drove to Versailles and spent several hours going through this famous palace.

Versailles

History

Around 1700, Versailles was the cultural heartbeat of Europe, and France was at its zenith. Throughout Europe, when you said “the king,” you were referring to the French king...Louis XIV. Every king wanted a palace like Versailles. Everyone learned French. French taste in clothes, hairstyles, table manners, theater, music, art, and kissing spread across the Continent. That cultural dominance continued, to some extent, right up to the 20th century. 

Three kings lived at Versailles during its century of glory — Louis XIV, XV and XVI. The palace was built by Louis XIV in the 1680s in the forests and swamps of Versailles, 10 miles west of Paris. The reasons for the move from Paris were partly personal...Louis loved the outdoors and disliked the “inside the beltway” environs of stuffy Paris...and the reasons were partly political.

Louis XIV, who ruled France for 72 years, from 1643 to 1715, was busy creating the first modern, centralized state. At Versailles, he consolidated Paris’ scattered ministries so that he could personally control policy. He invited France’s nobles to Versailles in order to control them. Living a life of almost enforced idleness, the “domesticated” aristocracy couldn’t interfere with the way Louis and his ministers were running things. Imagine France in 1700, with 18 million people united under one king (that was more than triple England’s population of less than 6 million). France had a booming economy and a powerful military. It was Europe’s number-one power.

Model of Versailles looking from the gardens to the front gate in the distance

At the center of all this was Europe’s greatest king. Louis XIV was a true Renaissance man, a century after the Renaissance: athletic, good-looking, a musician, dancer, horseman, statesman, art-lover, lover. For all his grandeur, he was one of history’s most polite and approachable kings, a good listener who could put even commoners at ease.

Louis called himself the Sun King because he gave life and warmth to all that he touched. Can you say arrogant?  Versailles became the personal temple of this 'god' on earth, decorated with statues and symbols of Apollo, the Greek god of the sun, and of Louis himself. The classical themes underlined the divine right of France’s kings and queens to rule without limit. For 72 years, Louis was the embodiment of the absolute monarch. 

There’s just two more Louis to remember. Louis XV, the great-grandson of Louis XIV, carried on similar traditions and policies, but without the Sun King’s flair. Still, Louis XV’s Versailles was the center of European court life. During his 60-year reign (from 1715 to 1774), France’s power abroad was weakening, and there were rumblings of rebellion from within.

France’s monarchy was crumbling, and the time was ripe for a strong leader to reestablish the old feudal order. They didn’t get one. Instead, they got Louis XVI, a shy, meek bookworm, married to a sweet girl from the Austrian royal family, Marie-Antoinette. Together they retreated into the idyllic gardens of Versailles and watched as France exploded into Revolution. In the chaos, the monarchy was overthrown, Louis and Marie-Antoinette were arrested and executed, and Versailles was transformed from a center of power into a tourist attraction.

The Royal Chapel

Every morning at 10:00, the organist and musicians struck up the music and Louis XIV and his family walked through to attend Mass. While Louis sat on the upper level and looked down on the golden altar, the lowly nobles knelt with their backs to the altar and looked up — worshipping Louis worshipping God. Important religious ceremonies took place here, including the marriage of young Louis XVI to Marie-Antoinette.

In the vast secular “temple” that is Versailles, built to glorify one man, Louis XIV, his Royal Chapel is a paltry tip of the hat to that “other” god... the Christian one. It’s virtually the first, last, and only hint of Christianity you’ll see in the entire complex. Versailles celebrates Man, not God, by raising the king to almost godlike status, the personification of all good human qualities. In a way, Versailles is the last great flowering of Renaissance humanism.

Hercules Drawing Room

In Louis’ house, pleasure ruled. The main banquets, balls, and receptions were held in this room.   So, Rachel and I did a little dance (and AJ cut in!)....

On one of the walls is a painting showing Christ in the middle of a Venetian party. The work...by Paolo Veronese, a gift from the Republic of Venice...was one of Louis XIV’s favorites, so they decorated the room around it.  The room’s columns, arches, and frieze match the height and style of Veronese’s painted architecture, which makes the painting an extension of the room.

The ceiling painting of Hercules being crowned a god gives the room its name. Hercules (with his club) hurries up to heaven on a chariot, late for his wedding to Zeus’ daughter. Louis XIV built the room for his own daughter’s wedding reception in the style of the day...pure Baroque. 

The Venus Room

In this room stands a statue (in the likeness of a Roman emperor) of a confident Louis XIV.  What is interesting is that he started out as a poor little rich kid with a chip on his shoulder. His father died before Louis was old enough to rule, and, during the regency period, the French Parliament treated little Louis and his mom like trash. They were virtual prisoners, humiliated in their home — and, back then, the Royal Palace was the Louvre in Paris — with bland meals, hand-me-down leotards, and pointed shoes. But little Louis grew up to become King Louis and make those nobles his virtual servants, living in his own private paradise at Versailles. Once Louis attained power, there was one topic you never discussed in his presence — poverty. Versailles was Louis’ way of saying, “Living well is the best revenge.”

Another interesting aspect of this room is how the paintings on the walls made the room look larger.  The painting below is just a flat wall but it is painted in such a way that it looks like there are pillars and a long hall leading out to a balcony.

The girls apparently get a little goofy after seeing too much self glorification stuff (which is basically what Versailles is...self glorification of Louis XIV who built the vast majority of the palace during his lifetime)

The War Room

Louis XIV was addicted to wars, and France’s success made other countries jealous and nervous. At the base of the ceiling, you can see all the other nations ganging up on powerful France: Germany with the double eagle (picture above), Holland with its great ships, and Spain with a red flag and roaring lion. 

But in the center of the ceiling is lady Lady France hurling thunderbolts down to defeat them all.  Notice who is on her shield....it's Louis XIV.  How vain can you get??

The stucco relief on the wall shows Louis on horseback, triumphing (surprise, surprise!) over his fallen enemies.

The Hall of Mirrors

No one had ever seen anything like this hall when it was opened. Mirrors were still a great luxury at the time, and the number and size of these monsters was astounding. This hall of mirrors is nearly 250 feet long. There are 17 arched mirrors, matched by 17 windows reflecting the breathtaking view of the gardens. 

Lining the hall are 24 gilded candelabras, eight busts of Roman emperors, and eight classical-style statues (7 of them are actually ancient originals). The ceiling decoration chronicles Louis’ military accomplishments, topped off by Louis himself in the central panel (with cupids playing cards at his divine feet). The king’s shown doing what he did best — triumphing. Originally, two sprawling carpets mirrored the action depicted on the ceiling.

The importance of this room survived the Age of Divine Monarchs.  In 1871, after the Prussians defeated the French, Otto von Bismarck declared the establishment of the German Empire in this room. And in 1919, Germany and the Allies signed the Treaty of Versailles, ending World War I (and, some say, starting World War II) in the Hall of Mirrors.

View out of the Hall of Mirrors to the monstrous gardens out back.  What you see is really a small portion of the gardens which literally could take the entire day to tour...

The King's Bedroom

As we were going through our audio tour (thanks Rick Steve!), we learned this is the room where the royal family gathered as the revolutionaries stormed the palace grounds in 1789 and demanded the end of the monarchy...

Rachel and the girls down in the square acting like the revolutionaries....

The girls acting like the royal family with AJ dragging them off to prison (from the room where they were reportedly caught).

The king's bed...

AJ making friends and doing his "Up high, Down low, Cut the Pickle" game....

The Queen's Room

It was here that the queen rendezvoused with her husband. Two queens died in this room. This is the room where 19 princes were born.  Interestingly, royal babies were delivered in public with witnesses to prove their blue-bloodedness.

Neither Louis XIV nor his successor were the most faithful of husbands. There was no attempt to hide the fact that the Sun King warmed more than one bed, for he was above the rules of mere mortals. By Louis XV’s time, adultery became acceptable, even fashionable, in court circles. 

This room looks like it did in the days of the last queen, Marie-Antoinette, who substantially redecorated the entire Queen’s Wing. Her bust is over the fireplace...

....and a picture of her and her kids adorns the walls (some say this was painted to help soften the queen's image)

The French Revolution lasted but a short time as the men and women of 'reason' ended up being tyrants of a different kind.  We would call them Marxists today and they were not very effective in governing.

Napolean filled the leadership vacuum in the early 1800s.  He thought about making Versailles his home until he got the bill for what it would cost to refurbish it.

Rachel and I walked out of Versailles with the same kind of thought....what a decadent, arrogant, totally 'me' focused, shallow world these kings lived in.  Completely overboard, never satisfied, always needs to be bigger, always needs to be better....it is like a time capsule for what much of American society is today (as far as the constant desire for more).

It frankly got us thinking about our own home and being over the top there.  Yes, we have a big, growing family but there are plenty of big families who have wonderful times in places a lot smaller than what we have.  Tis something we will be thinking about for sure as priorities have most definitely shifted since we left in December.

We decided to skip the gardens as they are massive and a tour unto themselves.  We took a quick photo next to this part of the garden and then headed out.

....and AJ chased pigeons as we exited the grounds...

Provins, France

That night we headed to Provins, France east of Paris for a Medieval dinner theater!  It was SO much fun and the town is absolutely fantastic.  

The restaurant is actually in an old cellar with high ceilings and sand / dirt floor....

Down we go....

....washing our hands in the bubbling cauldron at the bottom of the stairs....

And then getting into our Medieval costumes for the evenings festivities.  The host told us that on this night we were all nobles (instead of peasants) so there was no need to be polite!  Just yell out "Bring more food!" and it shall be done.

We had a blast...

The girls looked great...

As did Rachel...

There was much food brought in on stretcher like devices (those are pig heads in the middle).  All the actors only spoke French but luckily Rachel and V knew enough to interpret for the rest of us.  One funny comment was the one above about being nobles and another was about having no forks (apparently in those days they had knives and spoons only).

The entertainers were two jugglers who dropped a lot of balls early on but seemed to get better as the night when on and the difficulty of their act increased.  We were VERY close to the FIRE late in the show and I kept thinking about all those balls they had dropped earlier as the fire sticks were being throw from one juggler to the other at an angle where if they missed it would be a 'hot' mess for us.  Fortunately, they didn't miss!

As we headed out of Provins that night we passed a wonderful festival going on in the middle of the town square complete with singing and dancing.  It was too late for us to stop but was the kind of thing that is neat about this part of the world.

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The next day we started our journey to Amsterdam.  This picture is funny to me because I have asked the girls not to tie their shoes to their packs like S did here....and what happened below is one of the shoes got caught in the bench.  She couldn't get up so we all laughed at her and she got the morning picture of shame!

As we were driving through Belgium we came across a town called 'St Nicklaus' and Rachel pretty much said "We have to stop there."  So, we did and had a wonderful 2 hour break at a park there.

AJ played...

We fed the ducks...

We got goofy near the gazebo...

And ultimately found this little restaurant....

...in something that looked a bit like a castle...

And sat down for dessert with this view...

...and these desserts....

..which included a lot of really ice creamy like things with lots of chocolate (and some Belgium Waffles of course....)

But AJ found that sometimes too much of a good thing (liquid chocolate in this case)....

...is not such a good thing (look at that face!)

All in all a wonderful, relaxing afternoon in Belgium....

AJ even found a little playmate who had exactly the same little motorcycle toy that our friend Laurel gave AJ in Israel.  What are the odds?

We drove through St. Nicklaus, snapped a couple of pictures, and headed up to Amsterdam that evening (arriving the evening of July 14).

Next post will be all about our time in The Netherlands.

Til then,  God bless.

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